Cheddar: An American
Favorite!
Cheddar cheese is one of
those favorites that is used in so much of American cooking that we take it for
granted, I think. It's relatively inexpensive at the grocery store, so
making it at home from scratch may not be something most people would want to
do. It's not cost effective (about $10.00-12.00 for a 2 lb. wheel) and takes a
couple of days to have a cheese wheel ready to put away for ripening. Then
there's the wait: 1 month to 30 months.
Even here in Arkansas, I
can buy Tillamook cheese for under $9.00 for a 2 lb. loaf. (Tillamook is from
my home state of Oregon, on the coast.) I've tried many, many different brands
of cheddar cheese and Tillamook is, by far, my absolute favorite. In Oregon,
you can purchase several different types of this brand of cheese. From mild,
medium, sharp and Special Reserve, to their Jack and Colby. It's wonderful
cheese. But...
I wanted to make my own
cheddar, shooting for something that would taste similar to Tillamook's medium
cheddar cheese.
I know, I know. The
question of WHY struck me too, when it's cheaper and no work is required to go
to the grocery store and just BUY the stuff. Well...I guess I'm just a curious
George and wanted to give it a shot.
Yesterday, I did.
A few weeks ago I
bought a book called
Artisan Cheese Making at Home by Mary Karlin (Ten Speed Press) and it has some
dynamite recipes with very clear, very well defined directions. But I couldn't
find a recipe that was labeled as a plain ol' cheddar! I went to the
internet...the great oracle of modern-day wisdom (laughter here). I found a
recipe at
GRIT Magazine
online. GRIT has been around a LONG time. My dad used to read it back in the
1940's, when he was a kid.
I gathered my ingredients:
- 2 gallons
pasteurized cow's milk (not supposed to be homogenized; unfortunately anything
else was not available for me at this time--I used slightly more starter to
boost its culture)
- 1/2 teaspoon
mesophilic starter (I used a Farmhouse Blend: MA4001 with Lactococcus lactis
ssp. lactis; Lactococcus lactis ssp. cremoris; Lactococcus lactis ssp. lactis biovar.
diacetylactis; Streptococcus thermophilus.)
- Rennet (GRIT
said to use 1 teaspoon--that's a LOT for 2 gallons of milk...I used about 1/2
to 3/4 teaspoon. Many rennets are super-strength and too much rennet will make
your cheese rubbery.) diluted in 1/4 cup DISTILLED or WELL water
- 1/4 teaspoon
calcium chloride diluted in 1/4 cup DISTILLED water (tap water usually has
chlorine unless you have well water. Chlorine kills the ripening somewhat.
Ripening is what gives each cheese its particular flavor so you don't want to
risk that! Also, GRIT's recipe called for 1/2 teaspoon calcium chloride, but
I've never used that much for 2 gallons of milk.)
- 1-2
tablespoons NON-IODIZED salt. I use sea salt.
I've been using a 3
gallon, heavy-duty stainless steel pot for my cheese making thus far but we
discovered 3 very thick, very old pickle crocks downstairs in the basement. Two
of them were 3 gallon size. I'd read that crockery-cheese is ideal because the
clay retains heat much longer than anything else and is non-reactive (never use
aluminum or copper--they'll ruin your cheese). Because cheese is created at
rather low temperatures, I realized that keeping the crock warm enough (most
cheese making never gets above 100 degrees F.) by setting it in the kitchen
sink filled with hot water just might work. I've had a dickens of a time
keeping my stainless pot at the exact correct temperature. I've used a heating
pad, water bath, towels...and they work, but I thought it had to be easier...so
I did the crock.
Whoa.
Awesome. I stopped up the
sink (which I'd scoured thoroughly and completely disinfected--I wouldn't want
any secondary bacteria to get into my milk) and set that big crock in it. Then
I filled it with hot tap water and let the milk (which I'd put into the crock)
begin to slowly rise in temp. When it got to 70°F, I added the starter,
stirring slowly. I left the crock in the hot water (the water was about 110°)
until it got to the recipe's recommended 85°. Then I took the crock out, set it
on a big bath towel on the counter and wrapped another big towel around it to
help it maintain temp. I thought it would lose heat--just slower than the
stainless steel. To my shock and amazement, it didn't lose so much as 1/10th of
a degree (I use a digital thermometer) over the 1 hour I let it ripen!
I was so excited about that.
I've had to really fight to maintain exacting temperature with my fancy-dancy
$100.00 stainless pot. I did scrub out this crock thoroughly. I mean
THOROUGHLY. And then I used a solution of 1 gallon water to 2 tablespoons of
bleach to mist the crock inside and out, letting it completely dry (overnight)
before using. I'm a little ridiculous about the disinfecting but I'd rather be
safe than sick. These crocks were used maybe once or twice, twenty years ago or
so, so I don't think any residual pickle-funk was in existence. The crocks are
a good 3/4 of an inch thick and have a heavy, non-lead based glaze (food-grade)
inside and out.
The next step, after the
hour of ripening was complete, was to add the diluted calcium chloride, stir
well, then add the diluted rennet, also stirring well (30 seconds or so for
each). Then I had to keep the crock at 85° for another hour to let the rennet
do its work of coagulating the milk into a jello-ish solid. Then I took a long
knife and cut the now firm curd into 1/2 inch cubes. Sometimes the curds
require that full hour. Some recipes say 30-45 minutes, but if you can't get a
clean, sharp break (where your curds are sharply-edged after cutting), just
wait another 15 minutes and try again.
After cutting my curds,
the temp had to be raised to 100°. I had prepared a large water-bath canner
with hot water (over 140°) to use in getting my crock's contents up to that
temp, so I put the crock back into the sink and poured hot water into the sink
(NOT THE CROCK!) surrounding the crock with hot water. Keeping very careful
watch, I began to raise the temp of my cut curds to the requisite 100°, taking
the crock out of the hot water and setting it on its big towel on the counter
once I hit the correct temp. While it was getting to that correct temp, I
stirred the curds once about every 5 minutes to keep them from clumping
together. It took about 30 minutes or so to get to 100°.
As per the instructions, I
removed the curds from the whey when it got to temp and drained them in a
cheesecloth-lined colander. I let it drain for 10 minutes or so. While it was
draining into a big bowl, I took the crock with its remaining whey and added
enough hot water to fill it 1/2 full. I set the crock back into the hot water
and got the temp back up to 100° (it had dropped a couple degrees while I was
removing the curds) and then turned the clump of curds out onto a
disinfected, dry cutting board. Using a sharp (also disinfected) bread knife, I
sliced the clump of curds into 1/2 inch slices, then cut those slices
lengthwise (they looked a lot like French fries).
I placed them back into a
heavy stainless colander (of a size that could rest on the rim of the crock and
not fall in) and covered it with the big glass lid (which I'd been using to
cover the crock during the heating, ripening, etc., stages). I kept the whey
water at 100° to 102° for about 90 minutes; the steam from it keeping the curds
in the colander above it warm. It kind of melts into a slab. I turned the slab
2 times during the 90 minute wait. Then I removed the slab, carefully crumbled
it into about 1/2 to 3/4 inch chunks and placed them in a bowl. I sprinkled the
2 tablespoons of salt over the cheddared curds, using gloved hands to mix it
carefully and gently together.
I had a damp, fine cheesecloth
ready and used it to line an 8" tomme mould. Then, working fairly quickly
(don't want the curds to get too cold), and still using the protective gloves,
I packed the curds snugly into the mould, wrapping the excess cheesecloth over
the curds (dressing it, essentially). Then I put it into the press we made and
put about 12 lbs of weight on it.
The recipe from GRIT
doesn't specify how much weight to use. I did a bunch of searching online and
discovered that up to 50 lbs is used for cheddar! Wow, that seemed like a
lot...
After 15 minutes, I
removed the weight (as per instructed) and tried to flip the cheese but it was
semi-loose and not a snugly packed (like so many other cheeses I'd made) wheel
yet. So I did more research and found a similar recipe that used 20 lbs weight
at the beginning, increasing to 40 lbs for the second part, up to the 50 lbs
for the last, 24 hour pressing. I increased my weight to 20 lbs and went
another 15 minutes. It was better, much better, but I was beginning to have
doubts. Soooo.... I added another 15 lbs for a total of 35 lbs for the
next 30 minutes. Way better, but still kinda not smooched into a tight
cheddar-looking loaf. Not knowing quite what to do to find 50 lbs of weight
that would fit atop my relatively small press, I started thinking. I needed
something very heavy but small. I went down to the basement (our home's
repository of interesting and old stuff) and found a box that contained one
very heavy hunk of tow-chain, another smaller hunk of slightly smaller chain
and a couple of tire chains. I put them into a 1.25-gallon ice cream bucket
(and yeah they fit if I heaped them above the rim). I spied an old steel wood-splitting
maul and added that for good measure.
When I weighed it...
voila! It was about 48 lbs total, and with the 2 lb top of the press
equalled--yes. 50 lbs. Small, heavy, and even weight. I was so excited to have
this that I almost screeched. My husband just shook his head and laughed at me
but...yay!!
So I put it on the press
and waited about 3 hours to check it. Yes...the curds were becoming one
fantastic, solid mass. The recipe from GRIT says to leave it pressing for 36
hours, turning once every 12 hours. So, this morning at about 8:30 a.m., 12
hours after applying the 50 lbs weight, I checked it. Yes, yes, yes!! I have an
8 inch wheel of white cheddar! I flaked off a tiny piece of an edge while
turning it and redressing it for its next 12 hours and tasted that little
piece. Oh my. It tastes like a very fine, mild cheddar already!
I think I'll probably not
leave it for the full 36 hours, instead leaving it just 24. I suppose it
depends on what I find at 8:30 tonight when I check it. I do think that the
time exposed to room temp in the press does help to cure and age it, creating a
process in the curd of breaking down to create the "paste" that is
cheese with a familiar flavor.
Updated pictures of the
finished product coming soon!
I'm still learning but so
far it's been great fun.
Thus far I've made, in
order:
- Irish Cheddar
- Crescenza
- American Brick
Cheddar
- Alpine Tomme
- Havarti
- White Cheddar
I've also been making
yogurt for a couple months and it is absolutely fantastic. I'll never go back
to store-bought yogurt. It is very inexpensive to make at home and tastes
better than I ever imagined.
Next cheese: undecided!